Internal parasites are the biggest and most common threat to equine health. An animal that carries a large number of parasites cannot thrive and is susceptible to other diseases. Horse wormers are designed to help owners keep their animals free of parasitic infestation and reinfection. There are many to choose from, so it's important to know the options.
The number of organisms that live at least part of their lifespan inside horses is daunting. There are large and small strogyles, tapeworms, bots, and ascarids (roundworms). Less common but still potential problems are lungworms, threadworms, pinworms, hairworms, and large-mouth stomach worms. Fecal and blood tests can tell owners which parasites are present in their animals' systems.
Owners can often tell if a horse is 'wormy' by its appearance and actions. If there is a serious infestation, the animal will be lethargic and hard to keep weight on, with frequent bouts of colic or diarrhea. The coat will be rough and dull, and the tail may be rubbed at the top.
Knowing which parasites are prevalent in your area, as well as seasonal changes in parasitic lifestyles, will help when setting up a schedule for worming. For instance, bot flies lay their eggs in summer, so horses wormed in the fall won't need a product that is effective on bot larvae for spring treatments. Some soils and climate conditions are worse than others for keeping pastures infected, and animals on overgrazed land are usually at greater risk.
There are both chemical and non-chemical ways to keep animals healthy. Chemical wormers are targeted; in other words, they are effective against certain kinds of worms. Some broad-spectrum worming agents kill many species; Ivermectin is one generic name for a compound that combats many different parasites. It's important to read the labels or get a vet's advice when choosing a wormer; not all of them work against tapeworms, for example.
Rotating pastures helps control parasitic invasions. When a field 'rests' for six months or more, eggs and larvae will die off. Many people run cows for half the year, followed by horses. Mowing and dragging pasture to expose larvae to birds and other predators helps also. Picking up droppings on a weekly basis is the best mechanical way to keep pastures clean.
There are several natural worming products made for horses. Feeding diatomaeceous earth - mixing it in moistened grain - is another way to get many internal free-loaders. This method is good for very old animals who may become sensitive to chemical formulas. Commercial products include pastes, one-day pelletized formulas, and daily worming pellets to sprinkle on feed (to prevent reinfection as well as address actual infestation).
Addressing parasite problems is an essential part of regular care. Even those who keep their fields parasite-free need to have regular fecal tests done to make sure some new threat has not crept in. It's a complicated subject but one that is easily researched online if you don't want to depend on your veterinarian's knowledge.
It's a complicated subject, but it's not hard to understand with a little research. The internet makes learning easy, whether you want to know which products are available or the life cycle of the ascarid.
The number of organisms that live at least part of their lifespan inside horses is daunting. There are large and small strogyles, tapeworms, bots, and ascarids (roundworms). Less common but still potential problems are lungworms, threadworms, pinworms, hairworms, and large-mouth stomach worms. Fecal and blood tests can tell owners which parasites are present in their animals' systems.
Owners can often tell if a horse is 'wormy' by its appearance and actions. If there is a serious infestation, the animal will be lethargic and hard to keep weight on, with frequent bouts of colic or diarrhea. The coat will be rough and dull, and the tail may be rubbed at the top.
Knowing which parasites are prevalent in your area, as well as seasonal changes in parasitic lifestyles, will help when setting up a schedule for worming. For instance, bot flies lay their eggs in summer, so horses wormed in the fall won't need a product that is effective on bot larvae for spring treatments. Some soils and climate conditions are worse than others for keeping pastures infected, and animals on overgrazed land are usually at greater risk.
There are both chemical and non-chemical ways to keep animals healthy. Chemical wormers are targeted; in other words, they are effective against certain kinds of worms. Some broad-spectrum worming agents kill many species; Ivermectin is one generic name for a compound that combats many different parasites. It's important to read the labels or get a vet's advice when choosing a wormer; not all of them work against tapeworms, for example.
Rotating pastures helps control parasitic invasions. When a field 'rests' for six months or more, eggs and larvae will die off. Many people run cows for half the year, followed by horses. Mowing and dragging pasture to expose larvae to birds and other predators helps also. Picking up droppings on a weekly basis is the best mechanical way to keep pastures clean.
There are several natural worming products made for horses. Feeding diatomaeceous earth - mixing it in moistened grain - is another way to get many internal free-loaders. This method is good for very old animals who may become sensitive to chemical formulas. Commercial products include pastes, one-day pelletized formulas, and daily worming pellets to sprinkle on feed (to prevent reinfection as well as address actual infestation).
Addressing parasite problems is an essential part of regular care. Even those who keep their fields parasite-free need to have regular fecal tests done to make sure some new threat has not crept in. It's a complicated subject but one that is easily researched online if you don't want to depend on your veterinarian's knowledge.
It's a complicated subject, but it's not hard to understand with a little research. The internet makes learning easy, whether you want to know which products are available or the life cycle of the ascarid.
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